Footwear Development

FAQ

 
 
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Footwear development questions, answered

The questions brands ask us most, with direct answers. For deeper reading, see our guides and glossary.

Working with us

About Double i Works

What does Double i Works do?

We develop footwear for brands. That covers planning the line, design direction, lasts and tooling, sampling and wear testing, factory selection and management, and quality through delivery. We also audit existing lines to fix cost, quality, and factory problems.

Who leads the work?

I do. I'm Iiley Thompson Sr. I developed footwear at Nike for 14 years, was Director of Development for footwear at adidas, spent eleven years in development, sourcing, and outdoor footwear at Under Armour, and was VP of Footwear at Huk. I work directly on every program. See my background.

What kinds of brands do you work with?

Outdoor brands with loyal customers that are adding footwear or a new category, and outdoor footwear brands that need to fix cost, quality, fit, or a factory relationship. Our focus is hunting and waterfowl, fishing and deck, and hiking and outdoor footwear.

Do you work with startups?

With funded ones, yes. Footwear requires real capital for development, tooling, samples, a first production run, and the marketing to sell it. We're not the right fit for projects financed with personal debt or for one-off pairs.

Will you sign an NDA?

Yes. We're glad to sign your NDA before the first detailed conversation.

Where are you located?

Cannon County, Tennessee, about an hour from Nashville. We work with brands across the U.S. and with factories in the United States and Asia.

Development

About developing footwear

How long does it take to develop a new shoe or boot?

Usually 8 to 14 months from an approved brief to product in your warehouse, including two or three sample rounds, testing, production, and freight. See the full timeline.

What is tooling, and why does it matter so much?

Tooling is the set of molds used to make outsoles and midsoles, cut for each size in the run. It's usually the biggest fixed cost in a new style and the hardest decision to reverse, which is why we release it only when fit and design are right. Glossary: tooling.

What are factory minimums?

Factories set a minimum order quantity, usually per style and color, to make a production run worthwhile. Minimums multiply across your size curve, so they shape how many styles and colors a first line can carry.

Can you build on existing tooling to move faster?

When a proven last and outsole suit your product, building on that platform can save time and tooling cost. When your product needs to do something new, it gets its own.

Can you make footwear in the United States?

Yes, for the right products. Our network includes U.S. factories, and we'll tell you honestly whether your construction, price point, and volume fit domestic production.

Do you develop products other than footwear?

Footwear is our focus. Through our factory network we can sometimes help with related products, such as bags or accessories, for brands we already develop footwear for.

Start a project

Tell us what you're building.

Share the brand, the category, and where you are today. If it's a fit, you'll talk directly with me. We're glad to sign your NDA before the first call.

Based
Cannon County, Tennessee
Factories
United States and Asia